Discover the Magical Kos: A Vacation with Kids

Our group of five children and six adults embarked on a summer adventure to the Greek island of Kos, where we spent two weeks. We opted for a travel agency package but didn't limit ourselves to the hotel resort. Instead, we rented a car to explore the island and quickly fell in love with its beauty, greenery, and unique experiences.

>>> Is Greece on your mind too? Check out this guide to the most popular Greek islands for tips on when to visit, how to get there, what to see, and where to eat.

Psalidi

Our hotel, Kipriotis Village, is located on the island's northern side, about a 45-minute walk from the capital, also named Kos. Psalidi, west of the capital, is one of the island's wealthiest areas, with several upscale hotels and affluent locals. Our hotel was average but set in a lovely garden with one-story apartment buildings. However, the service was lacking, with only one or two bartenders at the bars, leading to long waits for drinks. After experiencing excellent service in Turkey last year, this was disappointing, but we adapted 🙂

Psalidi is a pleasant choice, but be cautious of the sea. If you prefer calm waters, avoid the island's northern part. Here, waves are a daily occurrence, ranging from large to massive, sometimes painfully tossing us onto the rocky beach. The kids loved it, though, riding the waves on inflatable melons and donuts like a roller coaster.

Our beach was rocky. On the first day, I realized I had forgotten water shoes. Without them, entering and exiting the sea was painful and slippery. The stones were large, and the shoes we bought at the hotel shop didn't last the two weeks on the rocks.

Capital City of Kos

The town of Kos, with a population of 12,000, is lively. The harbor and marina dominate the area, where the Onassis family's yacht is docked. Kos captivated them so much that they have a summer residence in the mountains. The island's nature is diverse and imaginative, creating a small yet varied landscape.

Near the harbor, you'll find the remains of a fortress built by the Knights of Saint John in the 14th century to defend against pirate raids. It was constructed using marble and stones from ancient monuments. Today, visitors can explore the fortress and view a collection of ancient statues.

Pirate ships in the harbor offer various cruises, including a round trip to three islands with open sea swimming or a visit to the nearby island of Nisyros. More on that later. Cruises to Turkish Bodrum are also popular, taking less than an hour to reach Turkey. The Turkish coast is visible from Kos's northern side, and the signal from Turkish mobile operators can sometimes be stronger than Greek ones. To avoid a high phone bill, manually select a Greek operator.

Walking along the marina leads to a street lined with shops, bars, and tavernas. Cross one, and you'll find yourself on a sandy beach with calm waters and a gentle entrance. Although it was busier than our hotel beach, the sand was a welcome change, and we enjoyed a pleasant day. Sunbeds are available for rent, or you can use them for free if you order from nearby bars or tavernas. We rented ours from a young Swedish woman working in Kos for the summer.

City Center

Returning to the city center, you'll find traces of ancient Greeks, Romans, Knights of Saint John, Muslims, and Italians. One of the most beautiful buildings is a mosque, though damaged by the 2017 earthquake, it remains impressive. The Italians, who occupied the island from the 1930s until the end of World War II, left their mark with interesting buildings constructed after a massive earthquake.

The main square, featuring the town hall, agora (market), and a museum, showcases Italian style. Streets are bustling, with tavern owners inviting tourists to dine. Tables often spill into narrow alleys, making an evening stroll feel like walking through a dining area.

During the day, an iced frappé is refreshing, a Greek invention. You can also try a frappuccino (iced cappuccino) or a kanelada, an iced cinnamon drink.

Hippocrates – the Most Famous Native of the Island

The renowned ancient physician Hippocrates hails from this beautiful island. In the capital's center stands a plane tree, where locals say he taught his students. Though it appears ancient, the 2017 earthquake left it fragile, requiring an iron structure for support.

Our Czech guide, Veronika, whispered that it's likely a descendant of the original tree, as no tree lives for 2,300 years. However, locals are sensitive about this topic and would be offended if we doubted its authenticity.

Asklepion, the First Hospital in the World

Hippocrates is also linked to Asklepion, one of Greece's best-preserved ancient monuments, known as the world's first hospital. Located in the forests behind the city, its upper floors were uncovered by a large earthquake in the last century.

Treatment lasted four to six months and was free for everyone, accepting both women and men. The success rate was reportedly high. If I could travel back in time, I'd choose to visit for a healing stay.

Patients progressed through different floors. The first month was spent on the lowest floor, drinking spring water and conversing with doctors or priests. Hippocrates believed physical health was closely tied to spiritual health. Later, patients moved up a floor, adding baths to their regimen, with a strong emphasis on personal hygiene.

After a month or two, patients moved up another floor. This level added wine and a hearty diet to the treatment. Patients with livestock or animals would sacrifice them to the demigod Asclepius, who would visit and heal them at night. Whether this was true or a result of the wine consumed during the sacrificial ceremony, we'll never know.

Treatment concluded on the highest floor, where patients meditated and visited the temple of the god Apollo.

Driving Across the Island

The island is about 45 kilometers long, so you can drive across it in a day, even with stops. The maximum speed limit here is 70 km/h, but mostly it's 50 km/h. Follow the signs, as there are no general rules for maximum speed in the city and outside of it.

We set off from the northwest, from Psalidi, to the eastern part of the island, to the Kefalos Peninsula. In the town of the same name, we drove our cars up to the highest peak, which really took a toll on them; we barely made it up in first gear. From the top, we were offered a beautiful view of the bay.

Beaches of Kos

From there, we headed to Paradise Beach. The beaches here in Kefalos are not hotel beaches; they are public and sandy. The sea here is completely different from what we had in the north. Even though we were also in the Aegean Sea, it was calm, turquoise, with white sandy beaches. The water is indeed 2-3 °C cooler than in the north, but it was a great refreshment. The kids loved it here, and we would have definitely stayed all day if we didn't want to explore more places.

We got hungry, so we stopped for lunch at the Taverna by the donkey along the road. At first glance, it didn't look like much, but they cooked excellently. We also had their traditional moussaka. The food was served on paper tablecloths with a map of the island, so we fine-tuned our plans for the rest of the day during lunch.

At the car rental, they recommended Tigaki Beach to us from the northern beaches. They said it was the most beautiful on the island. However, we didn't even stop there. We were deterred by the number of people and the black algae at the entrance to the sea. So we moved to Marmari Beach and we did well. Right across from the parking lot was a small paid beach Ria's Beach. With the sunbed, we received grapes, there were toys for rent, a buffet with normal prices, and free Wi-Fi.

The sea had waves, but the beach was sandy. Again, we were convinced of the diversity of this small island. And we still had the highlight ahead of us.

Thermes, Beach at the End of the World

From Marmari, we continued further along the northern side of the island to Psalidi and from there all the way to the far west of the island. The road climbed into hills that formed sharp bare rocks. Again, a completely different world. Kos is a green island thanks to three mountain springs that supply it with water.

We arrived at a sign indicating the end of the road. We parked and set off down a steep dusty path. After about five minutes, we reached the beach. Small pebbles, a nice buffet, sunbeds, and umbrellas. We continued further and came to a place where thermal water springs from the rocks. It has a volcanic origin. By the spring, there is a pond made of stones with warm water. Here you can lie down, warm up, and then cool off in the sea. But you can also find warm currents in the sea, making it ideal for those who feel cold.

In the evening, we let the kids (ages 8 to 3) vote on which beach we should return to. And this beach in the inhospitable rocks with thermal water won. The next day, we spent the whole day at this beach. We rented sunbeds from a lady who has a dream job. In the morning, she managed to warm up in the hot water, then cool off in the sea, and then she was already collecting money for the sunbeds.

We were there all day because the kids enthusiastically snorkeled, there were no waves, and we had trouble getting them out of the water. We only managed to do so when a goat came to investigate the tourists' bags. In the evening, a smaller herd of goats appeared at the top of the rock. At first, they showed us acrobatic tricks, and then they came down and waited for an edible reward for the performance they put on for us.

For us, this was the best beach. Although many would probably disagree because people mostly stopped here only for a while and then moved on.

The Village of Zia

Another must-see on Kos is the mountain village of Zia. We came here during the day when it is relatively empty. In the evening, you can hardly find parking here. Everyone comes here for the sunset. The views from here are truly fabulous.

The village lives off tourists, so there are shops and restaurants everywhere. We climbed up to a small church, but it was closed. The views from Zia are really beautiful even during the day. If you like hiking, then it is also a good starting point for a hike.

The Island of Nisyros

One day we went to see the nearby island of Nisyros. The locals told us that it is much more beautiful than the widely praised Santorini. From the port of Manavgat on the south of the island, the boat ride took less than an hour. First, we went into the mountains to walk in the crater of an active volcano. The ground did not shake beneath our feet, as various articles we read before the trip promised. However, the smell of sulfur was strong, and at times we saw steam rising from openings in the ground.

More than the volcano, we were captivated by the town of Mandraki. Amazing atmosphere, beautiful architecture, almost no tourists. We hiked up to the Panagia Spiliani Monastery, which is small but is said to be one of the most beautiful in Greece.

If you have the opportunity to go there, I definitely recommend Nisyros. In a taverna by the sea, we had an experience not only from the food but especially from the atmosphere. It felt like time had stopped there.

By the way, according to legend, Nisyros is said to be part of Kos. In the days when the gods fought with the titans, Poseidon cut off a piece of Kos with his trident and buried one of the titans with it. And so, when the volcano or earthquake sounds, it is because this titan is angry.

What to Bring Back from Kos

We brought baklava, olive oil soaps, excellent cooking herbs, and herbal teas for family and friends. In Nisyros, I bought their specialty – almond syrup. The typical drink of Kos is kanelada – iced water with cinnamon syrup. You can find these syrups in almost all shops. You can also buy textiles, jewelry, and fake items of world brands here.

The island of Kos is definitely worth a visit. If you get here, set aside at least one day to walk around and discover its many faces. If you are not a fan of summer vacations, spring and autumn belong to cyclists on Kos. There are cycling paths built around the coast that mostly go flat. This is how the Dutch spend their vacations here.